The journey starts and ends in New York — with many different worlds in between. It will take us through the Rust Belt to Detroit, then to Boulder, Colorado; followed by Austin, Texas and Hartford, Connecticut. It is a journey between two golden ages — the steel industry and start-ups.

When the plane breaks through the clouds, the rusty industrial areas in front of New York’s enticing skyline become visible.

Trip to Reading, Pennsylvania.

In the hotel bar, we play billiards with Tony from Georgia, who is stranded in the North looking for work. Why exactly he chose Reading is beyond our comprehension and his heavy Southern accent makes it impossible to chat, which is why we drink whisky instead.

Once upon a time, “pretzel capital of the world”, Reading is now at the bottom of the statistics: More than one-third of its inhabitants live in poverty.

We continue our journey to Harrisburg, passing through Pennsylvania’s drowsy villages and monotonous agricultural landscapes. Houses, streets, the power supply — nothing was made to last and nothing will be rebuilt. Too irrelevant, too outdated. The future lies elsewhere.

1979 marked the first core meltdown at a nuclear power plant in Harrisburg, immediately catapulting the town to world fame. In 2011, Harrisburg declared itself insolvent; nonetheless, its nuclear power plant Three Mile Island is still running.

Burger chain monotony along US provincial roads. Tedium for miles and miles, in repetition.

We stroll through Pittsburgh, once a key site in the US steel industry. The city was able to cushion its economic decline relatively well and is considered a prime example of successful structural change. Still, the outskirts of Pittsburgh look woeful.

Youngstown is one of the most important steel cities in the US. Its demise was already extolled by Bruce Springsteen in 1995. Located in one of the country's blind spots, the city continues to decay as innovation seems to pass by.


Efraim is poking fun at us because we order salad — “rabbit feed” — in a restaurant. Exposed as Europeans, we are smothered with Trump apologies. Not the last time by any means.



The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company is named after Charles Goodyear, who discovered the vulcanisation of rubber by accident, manufacturing it for the first time. Nevertheless, he was destitute throughout his life. In 1898, Goodyear was established in Akron, followed by Goodrich and Firestone, and so the city became the center of the rubber and tire industry.


The factories are vacant and the people’s minds are clouded; the US is experiencing an unprecedented opiate epidemic. The number of drug-related deaths has increased. In fact, more people are killed by heroin than by traffic accidents. The Rust Belt is particularly affected by this trend.



Alongside the car industry, rubber manufacturing in Akron went downhill; however, the city has managed to nurture fresh impetus against the demise with investments in research and education institutes.



Passing by Lake Erie into Detroit — the center of the US auto industry. Since the 1970s, following its demise, nearly two thirds of the previously two million inhabitants have moved out of the “Motor City”.

We drive into downtown Detroit. The surrounding neighborhoods and the city’s deterioration leave one speechless. Enormous industrial complexes are marked by decades of vacancy — entire districts are dilapidated and few people are on the streets.




The Michigan Central Station is situated in the background; once the tallest railway building in the world, the structure is listed but vacant today.





View from the Fisher Building — an Art Deco icon — onto Cadillac Place, the former headquarters of General Motors.

We take the elevator to the top floor of the Fisher Building where we discover more vacant offices with incredible views of downtown Detroit.

Detroit’s decline has been extolled and captured in morbid photos which have brought it world-renown. Yet, for some years now the city has been taking tentative steps towards a new economic future. We meet two companies that build on the city's old traditions with innovative ideas.

Detroit Labs is a software developer as well as a modern supplier to the automotive industry. The company was established five years ago. The now well over 100 employees write software for automobile companies around the world.

Bill came to Detroit from San Francisco three years ago to work for Detroit Labs. On the one hand, there is the industry and on the other hand, there is the city of Detroit. The industry still exists even if on a smaller scale and the city is recovering from its long-term downfall. However, that cannot be said for factory jobs. Car manufacturing processes are more sophisticated and mechanized today, so that less workers are needed. Jobs are returning, but of a different nature.


John and Bill guide us through their offices, talking of Detroit and the car industry, and how Detroit Labs moved into this downtown building, which had been vacant for 30 years.



The theater in the Michigan Building was closed after half-a-century in service and turned into a car park only one year later in 1977. The molding over the subsequently installed concrete ceilings tells a story of glamorous times when thousands flocked to the cinema. Today, the building has become the symbol of Detroit’s demise.


Cadillac Place — the headquarters of General Motors until the company moved into a new building on the Detroit river. Today, the government has its administrative offices in this building, named after Detroit’s founder, Sieur de Cadillac.



The people behind bicycle manufacturers Detroit Bikes produce high-quality city bikes. In doing so, they are not only reviving an economic sector that existed in Detroit before the car industry but are also providing jobs to those who worked on the production line for General Motors and others.

Zak Pashak, head of Detroit Bikes, came from Canada to Detroit to build up an enterprise. He says there is much to learn from Detroit.







Perhaps it is Detroit’s place in music history or the attraction of its industrial ruins that speak of the city’s former cultural glory that lure companies in the creative industries to settle here. There are still dark clouds hanging over the rest of the Rust Belt — gridlocked in matters of infrastructure, education and future.
Our next stop is Boulder, Colorado, a small town at the foot of the Rocky Mountains.
Tobias Kruse — In America
In April, Tobias Kruse travelled the United States with his camera — from New York, passing through the Rust Belt to Detroit by car (Part 1). He then flew to Boulder, Colorado (Part 2),
followed by Austin, Texas (Part 3), before returning to the East Coast (Part 4). For decades, states in between the coasts have been referred to as “flyover country”, but at least Colorado and Texas are now competing with California. Kruse wrote down his
impressions.
Tobias Kruse has been a member of OSTKREUZ since 2011. He lives and works in Berlin.